Gui Rosa Makes Knitwear Misbehave—in the Best Way

If the word crochet immediately sends your imagination to a perfectly behaved cardigan, Gui Rosa would like a word. Preferably with a little hardware attached.

The London-based Portuguese designer, a Central Saint Martins graduate, brings painstaking handwork into contact with tougher materials and a wonderfully unruly sense of styling. The official London Fashion Week profile describes that conversation between couture craft and industrial components. Look at the openwork, the dangling details, the spaces between the stitches. These clothes ask you to come closer.

For the Spring/Summer 2027 debut, British Vogue’s Mahoro Seward reports on Rosa’s first full ready-to-wear collection and the making behind it. A pink merino cardigan threaded through leather eyelets and brass rings is one particularly good example of softness finding a sharper companion. Read Seward’s interview and collection report here.

That tension is what catches us. A familiar technique does not have to arrive with a familiar attitude. Something handmade can be delicate, strange, confident, and a little theatrical without losing the evidence of the hands that made it.

For our everyday wardrobes, the interesting lesson is contrast—not copying a runway look from head to toe. Try a soft knit with a structured belt. Put something lacy next to a plain, sturdy jacket. Let one unusual texture interrupt the predictable part of an outfit.

The accompanying image comes from Rosa’s official designer profile; it illustrates the design language, rather than documenting a specific look from this season’s runway.

We love finding designers who make us reconsider something we thought we already understood. Knitwear has plenty of life beyond being sensible. Sometimes it just needs permission to cause a little trouble.

Gui Rosa design imagery from the official London Fashion Week designer profile. Collection/date and photographer are not specified in the profile image metadata; not presented as a Spring/Summer 2027 runway photograph.

Written by Leah